Railroad Ties or Thai Railroads? (Chiang Mai Part I/III)

6-7 March, 2017

Arriving at Hua Lamphong train station felt like stepping into another world, like something from an adventure movie set in a time long gone. Its early 20th century Renaissance-revival beauty was fading but still very present. The ceilings are very high and the terminal is incredibly wide. Within, one can find travelers from all stages of life and social statuses: working-class Thais, young western backpackers, and whole extended families with grandmothers and babies in tow.

one of the dozens of platforms at Hua Lampang

As I looked around the concourse, I considered all the thousands of travelers who have traversed the station over its century of operation, people who have lived lives and breathed breaths. Many who no longer are. I don't know why, but there is something a little sad about a place like this.

I was excited, and admittedly a little nervous about the train's facilities, though Michael had reassured that train travel was nice.

three train travelers clad in blue

note the payphone

Michael had promised to buy first-class train tickets (which cost only around $50 USD, so it's relatively very affordable), however, there was a little fiasco, and my all too Thai-ified brother, with his adopted Thai laid-backness, had forgotten to make a purchase far enough in advance and had ended up with a trio of second-class tickets. But luckily, when we arrived at the station, there was a single first-class cabin available due to a no-show, so my mom and I were able to procure it. If we were patricians, then Michael was the plebeian, for he had to sit in second-class.

A tour of the first class cabin: one one side was a soft, wide leather bench that folded down to make the lower bunk bed; the top bunk lowered from a shelf above. The cabin was equipped with a sink, shaving mirror, and luggage shelves.

We sat on the lower bunk for a while and watched the edges of Bangkok begin to fall away. We passed the familiar Chitralada Palace in Dusit, where Michael works. We passed crowded city streets and urban sprawl that went on and on. As the train rolled on and picked up speed, we passed shanties of wood and tin built alongside the track. Occasionally these ramshackle huts just barely scraped the train windows.

A stewardess and steward came together and brought a fruit tray with juice, turned down our beds, and bid us a good evening. The beds were comfortable and the air-conditioned cabin became very cold. Too cold... I wrapped up in my jacket, long pants and all the blankets even though it was 80 and humid outside the train.

The rhythmic rocking of the train lulled me to sleep. The next thing I knew, the sun was rising. The train had really picked up speed. Tropical vegetation flew past outside the window and I saw rice patties and hills and small villages and monasteries scattered in the valleys. We were climbing up and up, curving around the hills that led into Chiang Mai.

a station we pass when we had nearly reached Chiang May on the morning of the 7th

We stepped out into the morning air at the Chiang Mai station. It was less humid than the south, and maybe a bit cooler. Luggage in tow, we headed to find a taxi to take us into the city.

Chiang Mai station

on a songteaw, a pickup bed converted into a taxi/minibus apparatus