Sacred Chiang Mai: Adventures at Wat Doi Suthep (Part III/III)

8 March 2017

Ten hours by train transported us to a completely different world. Chiang Mai felt nothing at all like Bangkok. The air was cooler and less humid, the terrain was hillier, and though there were crowded streets, Chiang Mai had no buildings taller than ten stories, and still preserved a smaller town feel. At least in comparison to Bangkok's chaos, it did.

We arrived at the Rainforest Boutique Hotel, an open-air hotel off a narrow side street, and dropped our baggage. We arranged for a driver to take us on a day trip to one of Chiang Mai's most popular sites: Doi Suthep. 

Rainforest Boutique Hotel, a refuge in chaotic Chiang Mai

Wat Phra Doi Suthep is a temple complex high in the hills above Chiang Mai. In our hired cab we ascended, spiraling up the hills in curving roads. Our driver dropped us off in a square below the steps leading up to the temple. There were many tents where vendors sold souvenirs and food for visitors of the temple and its surroundings.

Below the temple were various status of Buddhist figures. A gigantic gong sat unguarded by the side of the path. I suddenly became very tempted to give it a ring, but I was nervous and did not want to bring any attention to myself. But my brother egged me on. Grinning, I made sure no one was around, picked up the large mallet, and hit the gong as hard as I could, bracing myself for a jarring sound. It made no noise. It wasn't actually real gong. Otherwise, dumb tourists like me would probably be ringing it more often.

the silent gong

We began our trek up the hill to the temple. There are 300 auspicious steps guarded by twin dragons flanking the stairway. The day was sunny and the sky was clear, so there were many other visitors, even though it was only mid-morning.

steps heading up

We arrived at the top. Through a grand front gate, there was a courtyard with several buildings, different chapels, and many Thais making merit. The smell of incense filled the air, and shoes were arranged, stacked, and piled outside the arch to the inner temple. Inside this courtyard was a golden chedi, the stupa house for a Buddhist relic.

The temple buildings were beautiful, with gold and stone inlays. The massive golden chedi was situated at the highest point in the temple, its spire pointing up to heaven. To one side, there was a long strip of golden cloth rolled out. Visitors could sign their names, and perhaps offer a certain thought or prayer, and the cloth would later be rolled at the bottom of the chedi to dress it.

a sign read "do not ring the bells" in Thai, English, and Chinese

temple's outer courtyard

At one edge of the temple complex an outlook gazed back down over Chiang Mai. The air was really hazy, so it was hard to see, but it was evident that we were quite high up. Though there were many other tourists and Thais, in the moment high up at the outlook, in the warm, windy air, with my mom and brother, I found a moment of peace.

the golden stupa in the background holds a Buddhist relic and points to heaven

We ended our temple visit in the most natural way: with the purchase of some ice cream. I discovered by love for taro, which Michael disbelieves I even like. We then, perused some of the winding, cobblestone streets below. The day was very warm and I heard a mix of half a dozen different tongues.

leaving a piece of ourselves at the temple

icecream, youscream!

After exploring, we met our driver again in the street below the temple. Our descent down the curving roads led us past hazy views of the city of Chiang Mai spread out below us. Rounding a curve midway down, our driver gestured to a scenic outlook and pulled over.

above Chiang Mai

We walked to a platform hundreds of feet above the ground and saw the city below. After taking a few selfies, we came to an area with a few vendors of fried meat and a caricature artist who seems to be captivating the attention of a half dozen people.

The artist, a middle-aged Thai man with a true gift for art, could create a life-like sketch of a subject in one minute for 30 baht (about $1 USD). For the three of us to get a portrait drawn the time and cost was trippled- still not a bad deal.

the artist deep in concentration

His charcoal pencil quickly flew across the pad, shading in detail, as he talked with us in limited English, and we shared many laughs. He told my mom that he liked Elvis Presley and Jackson Pollock. He than began singing "Can't Help Falling in Love", expecting my mother to join in, which she did. Out of nowhere, he then began singing "When You Believe" from "The Prince of Egypt" film. My friend Madi loves the film, and I knew she would have gotten a kick out of it.

When he began drawing my face, he said I looked like Hugh Jackman in "Wolverine". First the lady in Narita and Tom Cruise and now this. I was flatted. But perhaps, I just look like a generic foreign white guy, and nothing more. What a hoot!

He wrapped up his sketch, a beautiful portrait of mother and sons. Then, free of charge, he handed us a rolled-up sketch of the recently departed King Rama IX. He said that he draws 50 a day to hand out to people, and intends to do so for the rest of his life out of devotion for the King. He began to tear up. His reverence was inspiring.

mom and sons

We got back into the cab and headed back to the city. I left with a smile on my face. Human interactions are one of the sweetest parts of travel. It was a wonderful morning.

at Wat Phra Singh, a temple in downtown Chiang Mai