I'm Dreaming of a White Krama (Siem Reap part 2/2)

Exploring Siem Reap, Cambodia

Dec. 16-17, 2017

Other than seeing the remains at Angkor, we had several other meaningful experiences in Siem Reap. 

Posing with our friendly tuk-tuk driver for the weekend, Mr. Kim.

Phare: the Cambodian Circus

I confess, that when Michael suggested that we go to a circus in Siem Reap, I was a little skeptical. I mean, come on, why would we go all the way to Cambodia to see just another circus with creepy clowns and caged elephants?

But Phare was nothing like that. There were no animals, no tacky acts, and -by the grace of God- no clowns.

Phare, the Cambodian circus, was thrilling. The show itself was exciting and fast-paced. The circus was unlike what one might associate with circuses in the west. It was more like a play told through a combination of acrobatics, dancing, props, and impossible displays of athleticism.

The show we saw brought to life an old story from Khmer mythology: a story of a young disabled man who was shunned by his community, who were terrified of him and viewed his condition as demonic. He wanted the power and autonomy to participate in society, so he begged the gods to change him.

Like in Greek mythology, the supplicant did not get exactly what he wanted. He was transformed into an alluring, seductive woman-- and found a certain kind of power in his new form. Eventually, though, the village grew terrified of this woman and her incredible power, and killed her.

The gods grew angry, and told the mortals of their wrongdoing. The humans begged the gods to resurrect the disabled man, and they did. In the end, they came to accept the man whom they once feared.

This story was all told through music, dance, and acrobatic arts. There was fire, acrobatics, juggling, jumping, tumbling, more fire, flips, and humorous charades. There were no dull moments. The words, spoken in Khmer, were broadcast on a screen in English, Japanese, and French.

The most exciting thing about Phare, though, was its deeper mission. The profits the troupe generates from its shows go toward funding free education, professional arts training, and social support programs of Phare Ponleu Selpak, a social-service oriented non-profit in Cambodia.

The performers, all brilliantly talented and incredibly athletic, through their gift, found a dependable livelihood and education. Cambodian culture, which had once been nearly stamped out by the Khmer Rouge, has also been preserved through the drama.

Downtown Siem Reap Pub Street

On our last day in Siem Reap, the first place we went was the Angkor National Museum. Visiting the museum was a great follow-up to visiting the ruins at Angkor on the previous day. There were large exhibits dedicated to Angkor Wat and other prominent temples. There was detailed information on the history of architecture, and the ways in which various structures, designs, and styles reveal information on the time-period and sovereign. 

I got my fortune told by shaking sticks in a cup, something I'd done before in Thailand. There was a hall of a thousand Khmer-style Buddhas and a modern art exhibition. It was good to see Khmer culture, both history and contemporary, alive and well.

Michael and Pinky pose in front of large holiday display outside
the mall next to the Angkor National Museum.

We then explored Pub Street for a few hours, and briefly dove into the market to hunt for kramas. Kramas are traditional Cambodia scarves. They are worn by men and women, and they typically come in checked pattern prints. Kramas have been worn for centuries by warriors, farmers, civilians, and -unfortunately- were claimed by Khmer Rouge soldiers as part of their iconic uniform.

In the market, I bought several kramas for myself and friends, and even got a traditional Cambodian cotton shirt. The stalls deeper within the market generally offer lower prices. While we shopped, I practiced a few of the Khmer words I had learned with a shopkeeper's little girl, who stood watching us. She was not bashful at all.

My mom made me take a picture of all of us with the shopkeeper and her daughter,
much to my embarrassment. We spent way to long choosing kramas from stacks and stacks of
different sizes, colors, and patterns. I was glad to get out of there.

Stalls within the market.

As with most other establishments in Cambodia,
USD was the preferred currency at our lunch
 restaurant. There were strict rules on the
kind of bills not accepted.

One thing I really enjoy about Cambodia was the outdoor eating, cafe-style vibes
found on many street-side establishments.

Pub Street is famous for its restaurants, hostels, bars, and pubs. This street is popular among foreign visitors,
 who can find inexpensive food and drink.

We visited a prominent Buddhist temple near the city center.

A kitten basks in the warm sun, snoozing on a saffron monk's robe in a lazy
corner of the temple.

Count the electrical/ telephone wires.

Siem Reap had a more more relaxed and laid back vibe than Bangkok. The pace of life is slower, and it is a nice break from the hustle and bustle of the city. I can see why Michael enjoys taking holidays in Siem Reap as often as he can. 

Artisans Angkor Workshop

The last place we visited in Siem Reap was the Artisans Angkor Workshop. Sponsored by the same organization as Phare, Artisans Angkor Workshop employs local artisans who hand-make traditional handicrafts.

They work in modern facilities at a co-op, and receive fair wages and benefits as well as training in traditional cultural arts. This included stone and wood carving, metal work, silk weaving, painting and jewelry making.

Lea Haey, Cambodia

Our three days in Siem Reap were up. It was sad to be leaving so soon. I feel honored to have gotten to experience Siem Reap and Cambodia at this pivotal moment. Last century, Cambodia faced a bloody decade under the oppression Khmer Rouge regime. The regime drove its nation into poverty famine, forced labor, and genocide.

Today, however, one sees few external signs of the dark past in Siem Reap. The economy is growing. Cambodia is again open to the outside world. Tourism is an industry through which many Cambodians have found a successful livelihood, and arts, culture, and sport have once again been able to thrive. Furthermore, the Cambodias I was lucky enough to get to talk to were among the kindest, friendliest, and most easy-going people I have met anywhere. I cannot wait until I can come back. Next time? Sihanoukville or Phnom Penh!

Merry Krama, indeed. 75 percent of us were tourists wearing our
 Cambodian scarves en route back to Bangkok.

A Happy New Year to all my readers! 

You can read more about Cambodia in my brother's first published book, The Long Road From Pub Street, available on Amazon.com